A route that runs through the entire Cerdanya valley through paths and tracks that will show us the most beautiful and remote places in the region.
Modalities: Active, family and winther bikes
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The discovery of the remains of the Apostle James in Compostela in the early ninth century ignited an unprecedented religious fervor throughout the world known until then. From all over the old continent, devotees made their way to Santiago de Compostela to purify themselves and worship the relics of the holy martyr. After ups and downs, in the twentieth century, the path takes on great importance, adding to the religious aspect of the route others such as cultural and sports. The routes that led and lead to Compostela converge on two main routes: the Aragonese and the Navarrese, the latter entering from France via Roncesvalles and reaching Puente de la Reina, where it joins the Aragonese route coming from Somport passing through Jaca.
Many secondary roads converge on these main roads, one of them, and as a variant of the entrance to the Peninsula, it collected people from southern Europe who, entering through the Perxa and Pimorent passes, converge in Sant Jaume de Rigolisa (Puigcerdà), crosses La Cerdanya along the banks of the river Segre and continues, crossing the Pyrenees, in the direction of Jaca where it connects with one of the main roads.
Walking along this path of prehistoric origins, on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, we will delve into the essence of a region that, silently, has played a very important role in the historical development of a country and we will know and we will enjoy one of the most beautiful valleys in Europe.
Voluminous, the peak Plana de Lles or peak of La Portelleta is the second highest in La Cerdanya. Its ascent is highly offset by the fantastic view from the summit.
Access: From Martinet take the LV-4036 road to Lles and then a paved track to the reception of the Cap del Rec Nordic ski resort.
Start: Cap del Rec refuge.
Difficulty: Medium
Maximum altitude: 2,916 m
Elevation gain: 950 m
Total duration: 4.30 h (2.30 h one way / 2 h return)
Time of year: Spring, summer and autumn.
From the side of the Cap del Rec refuge (1,848 m) take path no. 18, also GR11, to the Pradell refuge. Once there we find the signpost of the path number 19 of Cerdanya trails, marked with yellow rectangles, which marks us in the direction of Tossa Plana de Lles. You immediately enter a black pine forest. Then comes a fairly steep slope until you leave the forest and reach the extensive plain of Les Someres (2,335 m, 35 min), with the remains of a hut.
It climbs a grassy ridge with black pines on the left to the foot of the wide southern slope of the mountain. The path is a bit blurry, but the rest of the ascent is obvious. Painting signs and numerous landmarks indicate the route. On the left, a path that should not be followed leads to the nearby “bassota de Setut”. The route gains altitude steadily to a first plateau, then increases significantly and attenuates at the top, at the beginning of the culminating granite stony plateau.
Without further obstacles you reach the summit of the peak of Plana de Lles (2,916 m, 2 h), an unbeatable viewpoint of the Cerdanya, Andorra and the Pyrenees to the west to beyond the Maladeta, specifically to the peak Mièidia de Bigorra. At midday the Cadí and the Baridà can be well seen and to the east the overview is extended to the Canigó.
The summit of Puigpedrós, located north of the Planell de Campcardós, is an exceptional viewpoint of much of the Pyrenees mountains, as its panorama extends from the Canigó to the Maladeta mountain range, naturally passing through the highest peak in Catalonia: the Pica d’Estats.
Access: Both from Meranges and from Guils Fontanera Station there are forest tracks, quite passable, which take us to the site of the Malniu refuge (2,130 m)
Home: car park at the Malniu refuge (2,130 m)
Difficulty: Easy- Medium
Maximum altitude: 2,914 m
Elevation gain: 784 m
Total duration: 3.30 h (2 h one way / 1.30 h return)
Season: Late spring, summer and autumn.
Notes: The track from Guils Fontanera is closed in winter. Also the track that goes up from the town of Meranges often becomes impassable at this time due to the accumulation of snow, which we must take into account for the approach.
From the Malniu refuge we start the path following the GR11 signs in the W direction to cross a wooden walkway that saves the drain of the Sec lake. We immediately go out to a wide meadow, which we cross in the same direction, and which soon makes us gain height through an area with some granite rocks, until we reach a wooden pole with indicators.
From here, we leave the GR11 path on the right, which would take us to the Engorgs refuge and, following the signs, turn left (NO) and begin to climb through a grassy area. by some streams that go down from the les Molleres pass. The path turns north with a steep climb and goes up the grassy ridge until it finishes in a flatter area of pasture.
It is time to cross this false plane diagonally following the stream that goes down to the right (NNE) and that will guide us for a stretch of the path, as it comes from the Campcardós Planell. Following the landmarks we find a steep slope down the stream. Leaving it on the right, we go over the steep climb, crossing some rocky areas, until we reach the southern part of the Planell de Campcardós (1.15 am), a vast plain in which the dome of the mountain to which we are heading stands out.
We cross the plain, which gradually gains height, in a NE direction, towards the pile of stones that forms the summit of Puigpedrós.
When we reach the base of the mountain, we dodge the final rocky ground on the right, and reach the top of Puigpedrós (2,914 m, 2 h), with a cross and a geodesic vertex at the highest point. If we go further north, apart from the immense perspective of the Pyrenees mountains and the nearby peaks of Andorra, we can see the whole depression that forms the Campcardós valley until we reach the village of Porta.
The return can be done by the same path we went up or down the Vall de Campcardós and passing by Lake Malniu.
The Puigmal is the fourth elevation of La Cerdanya and one of the four mountains of this region that exceed 2,900 m. It is also the highest peak in Ripollès. For this reason, its summit is very frequented by mountaineers who climb both La Cerdanya and Ripollès slopes.
Access: From Bourg-Madame take the N116 towards Sallagosa until you find, on the right, the detour that leads to the old Puigmal ski resort. Follow this paved road for 11 km to the last car park.
Start: Last car park of the old Puigmal ski resort.
Difficulty: Easy- Medium
Maximum altitude: 2,911 m
Elevation gain: 940 m
Total duration: 3.30 h (2 h one way / 1.30 h return)
Time of year: All year round.
Notes: We are moving on high mountain terrain and, therefore, we will have to be equipped. In winter it can be done with snowshoes or mountain skis.
We leave the last enabled car park of the old Puigmal ski resort and follow the stretch of paved road to a water treatment building. From here we leave the asphalt and continue along a narrow dirt track, surrounded by provence broom bushes, which leads us to cross the Aiguaneix canal. We cross it and follow a grassy slope until we find a track.
At this key point, instead of following the course of the river, we turn right and immediately see a large signposted stone that shows us the way to the Puigmal. We start the climb (S), sudden, through provence broom bushes and following the yellow paint marks. At the end of this climb, we find a plain. Here we have to turn east and go up a steep slope with decomposed soil until we come out on a grassy plain.
From this flatter area, we start a diagonal journey, pass by a ruined hut (1 h), and head south to find the visible Clot de la Pastera. When we get there, we find the wide path that comes from the Tossa del Pas del Lladres on the right. We, however, begin to climb to the left along a broken, vertical path. Further up, the route enters a rocky chaos, where the snow lasts until well into spring. Several trails cross this rocky area, but all end up on the ridge of the mountain (1.45am).
When we go out on the ridge, we can already see the undulating landscapes of Ripollès. Now we have to continue to the right (E), through the path that follows the summit ridge and reaches the base of a stony hill. We pass this hill and reach its highest part, from where we can already see the summit of Puigmal. We go there crossing an area of flat stones and reach the cross and the summit of the difficulties, the summit of Puigmal (2,911 m, 2h), where we also find a plaque with a fragment of Canigó , the work of the insignia Jacint Verdaguer.
This route, formed by a climb of gentle slopes, will take us to the top of the Coma d’Or, a watchtower with amazing views of the Lanós reservoir and the whole Carlit mountain range, which from here we can see to its full extent.
Access: Following the N-20 we reach the Pimorent pass. Here you have to take the track that goes to the right (NE) and goes into the Garcia valley. We have to go up it for about 3 km (in poor condition in the final section) to the side of the small dam of the water catchment.
Start: car park of the water dam.
Difficulty: Easy- Medium
Maximum altitude: 2,826 m
Elevation gain: 684 m
Total duration: 3.45 h (2 h one way / 1.45 h return)
Time of year: All year round.
Notes: Mountain easily accessible, but of considerable height. You must be properly equipped in order to avoid putting yourself in danger. The skywalk to the final ridge is complicated and you will need to be careful.
Once the vehicle is parked next to the water dam, we ascend through the center of the valley between paths, thus avoiding the turns of the track. When we reach the end, we find a path that goes up a steep grassy slope, which we climb without difficulty, until we reach a kind of imperceptible pass that leads to a small valley. We cross this valley and, going up another grassy climb, we come out on the first pass of the day, La Portella d’en Garcia (2,534 m, 50 min). From this pass we can distinguish, on the left, the three characteristic ridges that form the peak of Trespunts. In front of us we see perfectly the Pic de Coma d’Or and the whole way up.
We now descend along a stretch with some rocky areas and, in a few minutes, we reach the Coma d’Or pass, from where we see the lake of the same name located on the right. The path, signposted with some landmarks, winds again through a grassy climb and, in the final part, reaches a kind of slate bleachers, hung in the snow for much of the year. We cross these steps, always with the silhouette of the Coma d’Or in front of us, and we gain height between the flat boulders until we are practically at the base of the mountain. Patiently, we go up the path to this last climb, until we reach the ridge and the previous peak of the Coma d’Or (2,825 m). The main peak is on the left. However, to get there we will have to overcome a rather complicated skywalk, which can be avoided on the right, and continue along the short ridge that leads to the top of the Peak Coma d’Or (2,826 m, 2 h) .
From this summit we can perfectly see the lake of Lanós at our feet. The Carlit stands out on the horizon, in front of us, while the mountains of the Pas de la Casa sector remain located to the west.
At the eastern end of the Cadí rises the mountain of Tancalaporta, better known in the field of hiking with the Berguedà name Comabona. Its strategic location makes the summit one of the best viewpoints in La Cerdanya. The easiest ascent route, accessible by a track from Montellà, to reach the Gosolans pass and the summit following a stony chain without difficulties, leaves the Prat d’Aguiló.
Access: From Martinet take the LV-4055 road to Montellà, then a narrow paved road. Immediately to the right is the long track (13 km), not always in good condition, which climbs to Prat d’Aguiló.
Start: Prat d’Aguiló.
Difficulty: Easy
Maximum altitude: 2,554 m
Elevation gain: 604 m
Total duration: 2.30 h (1.30 h one way / 1 h return)
Time of year: Late spring, summer and autumn.
Notes: In winter the track is usually unaccessible due to the snow and it is not possible to travel until well into spring. The ascent to the Gosolans pass, however, is complicated by the inclination of the snowy slope (35 °). Until well into May, there are still congestions before the Gosolans pass (ice ax and crampons, useful).
From the parking area at the end of the track (1,980 m) that comes from Montellà, continue uphill on foot — there is a chain that prevents unauthorized cars from passing — to the nearby Aguiló meadow, with its guarded refuge (2,040 m, 10 min). The white and green stripes of the PR C-124, which follows the Ruta dels Segadors —which used to run through the Gósol reapers who used to go to the Cerdanya—, and the orange circles of Cavalls del Vent —circuit that connects the guarded refuges in the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park — indicate a path that passes by a spring and climbs a grassy plain with a small black pine forest. Then it enters the headwaters of the Bastanist valley and making a series of loops with a steep slope crosses a limestone boulder and reaches rocky ledges where the slope decreases. This is how the Gosolans pass (2,430 m, 1 h) was reached, which was also crossed by the painter Pablo Ruiz Picasso in the summer of 1906 once he ended his stay in Gósol.
Leave the PR C-124 and turn left onto the GR 150-1, a path that crosses the Cadí and the Moixeró along the ridge. In any case, it is better not to follow it because it does not climb to the top of the Comabona, as it avoids it on the southern slope. The most practical and attractive is to go along the ridge of the Cadí, on the left, to the next peak of Aguiló (2,494 m, 1 h 10 min). About 200 m to the right you can see the drinking troughs of the Tordera spring, with very cold water. The ridge turns right. You cross some meadows, you pass a limestone step and you reach the top of the Puig de la Font Tordera (2,526 m, 1 h 15 min). Then, descend to the Comabona pass and continue along the ridge. Then we skirt a small fault in the ground and reach the panoramic peak of Comabona or Tancalaporta (2,554 m, 1 h 30 min), where there are the remains of a geodesic turret.
Advancing to the south, this modest mountain is still an excellent viewpoint of La Cerdanya. Located at the southern end of La Calma, it is accessible from the reception of the Font-Romeu ski resort. However, from the Thémis solar power plant the route is more direct and attractive. The summit is used for paragliding.
Access: From Ur take the D-618, which passes through Vilanova de les Escaldes and Angostrina and crosses the Chaos of Targassona, a place with curious granite rocks that serve as a climbing school. Shortly before Targasona, turn left onto the road to the power station.
Start: car park at the Thémis power station.
Difficulty: Easy
Maximum altitude: 2,137 m
Elevation gain: 515 m
Total duration: 2 h (1.15 h one way / 45 min return)
Time of year: All year round, also in winter if there is little snow.
Notes:With snow the ascent is still easy and it is convenient to walk to the top with sticks and snowshoes.
From the open field before the Thémis power station (1,622 m), take a track and then a signposted path that skirts the enclosure of the mirrors to the right in the direction of the Vilalta holes. This power station, which has a large unmistakable chimney seen from afar, consists of a set of conical mirrors that concentrate sunlight in an oven that reaches 3,000 ° C. Once in the holes, without crossing the torrent, follow a path to the right that gains altitude between provence groom bushes and juniper bushes.
We leave the Grossa spring on the left (1,860 m, 30 min), the water of which comes out of some squalid slabs. On the other side of the stream are the remains of a hut. The path turns sharply to the right and between Prats, where the cattle can graze in the middle of winter if there is no snow, by a moderate and constant slope you reach La Calma, an extensive plateau with more pastures. Between some black pines and jumping a wire for cattle, it connects with the track that comes from the Clots hill, at the reception of the Font-Romeu ski resort. If there is snow this trail is a Nordic ski circuit. Continue to the right until you find a detour in the same direction, to the right. After a couple of loops, you reach the top of the Peak of Moros (2,137 m, 1 h 15 min), from which you dominate the whole of Cerdanya.
La Tosa or Tossa d’Alp is perhaps the most used mountain in the Cerdanya due to the fact that the Alp-2500 ski resort is located there, which includes the ski resorts of La Molina and Masella. It is very popular because a number of ski lifts, including a cable car, lead to the culminating plateau, where the “Niu de l’Àliga” refuge is located. However, if you leave the slopes a little, this human presence disappears and you enter into Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park. The overview from the summit, on the other hand, covers the whole of Cerdanya and a good part of Catalonia.
Access: From Alp take the road that leads to the reception of the ski resort of Masella. Then continue to another road on the right until the Coma Oriola car park ends.
Start: Coma Oriola car park.
Difficulty: Easy
Maximum altitude: 2,537 m
Elevation gain: 615 m
Total duration: 2 hours (1 hour one way / 1 hour return)
Time of year: Spring, summer and autumn.
Notes: In winter it is a hard ascent due to the beginning of the snow, with a final section where, if the snow is very hard, the ice ax and crampons will be useful.
From the car park at Coma Oriola (1,940 m) you have to go to the hole of the same name, but leave the ski slope that runs along it to the left. On the first grassy landing (2,000 m, 5 min) take a path on the right, initially blurred by the passage of cattle. This path skirts a limestone buttress and enters a black pine forest. Signposted with landmarks, it immediately gains altitude with a steep and constant slope through the forest. When you get out, you will find the Prat de la Tosa (2,200 m, 45 min), a plateau with rocks around it.
Turn left and continue along the bottom of a dry stream. The top of La Tosa with its TV antenna is visible to the left. You cross the lowlands of Urús and then, making loops between the rocky areas, you reach the ridge of the Pedrusques mountain range, from which you can get to Moixeró, the Cadí and the Pedraforca. Following this ridge to the left is the summit of Tossa de Das (2,448 m, 1 h 15 min), with a good view of the Fontllebrera hole, on the right.
Along the same ridge, without obstacles, you go down to the pass where the remains of the miners’ hut are and cross the old track that led to La Mena, a manganese mine. The final ascent is undertaken, with a notable but short incline, to the TV antenna and shortly afterwards to the geodesic turret at the top of La Tosa (2,537 m, 1 h 30 min). From up here, on a clear day, you can see the Collserola antenna and, to the west, the pre-Pyrenees mountain systems of Aragon, such as the Turbó, the Cotiella or the Guara mountain range.
Despite its modest altitude, the peak of Moixeró enjoys a spectacular view of La Cerdanya plain, the Cadí mountain range and Pedraforca. From its summit we can also see a large part of the central Catalan territory through and the waters of the Llobregat river.
Access: Located in Riu de Cerdanya, we cross the village and take the track, initially paved, which leads to the Serrat de les Esposes refuge and then to the Pendís pass. We follow it to the close of the detour that would take us to the Ingla refuge, where a fence blocks our way. There is a place to park.
Start: car park in front of the metal fence.
Difficulty: Easy
Maximum altitude: 2,091 m
Elevation gain: 340 m
Total duration: 2.15 h (1.15 h one way / 1 h return)
Time of year: All year round.
Notes: Itinerary with little elevation gain and highly recommended for a family walk. However, it is a grateful excursion, as from the top of the Moixeró we will enjoy some spectacular views. The rules of the Natural Park must be respected.
We cross the metal barrier that blocks the passage of vehicles and, instead of moving south, we immediately take the track that turns left. The route follows this track to the Trapa pass (1,824 m). From here, instead of descending, we follow its route, now in a clear southerly direction.
We go up gently along this route until we reach a kind of green plain, from which the path descends a little until, in its lower part, we pass by the Bagues de Riu, a shady and humid area with a few troughs for cattle. Then we start climbing again until the track practically disappears in a meadow, from where we can see, in front of us, the pass of la Font Freda de Riu. We can reach this pass by crossing it diagonally or following the track amrks, which go up to the right of the meadow, until we reach it.
Pass of Font Freda de Riu (1,979 m). The panorama suddenly opens and we see, at the end of the meadows of pastures, the Peak Moixeró and, further to the left, the Penyes Altes, which clearly show us its upper height. Now we have to cross the meadows along a path that goes to the right of the pastures and that takes us, through a practically flat area and in a few minutes, to the Moixeró pass (1,971 h). From this pass we can perfectly see the profiles of Cadí, the Pedraforca on its north side and the path that goes down to the Sant Jordi refuge, located at the bottom of the valley. From the pass where we are, we turn left and go up a path that takes us to the ringe of the mountain, where we find some granite pickets that mark the dividing line between La Cerdanya and Berguedà. We only have to make one last effort to overcome some small steps of limestone rock and reach the top of Moixeró (2.O91m, 1.15 h). The Montseny and Montserrat mountain ranges can be seen to the south, often among a sea of clouds.
